ok bout to tune arrows for my longbow,now is it better to choose one head weight and cut shafts too that head or is it easier to add weight.Im going to start with a full length easton carbon 400s out of my 50 pounder.150 up front,by the way those are some hard heads to find.I dont think its cut to center i dont know how to tell to be real truthfull.do you think its enough up front or do i need to get some brass inserts.if so what size should i start with.you guys better be ready to laugh your tails off when we start shooting cause im going to suck..thanks for the help...
Carbons can be a real pain to tune, but I start with some field points of various weights and leave the shafts full length. You may get lucky and find the combo right out of the gate.Then if you need to adjust them you either add weight thru brass inserts and/or screw in weights or by cutting the shafts back. If you do any cutting just do a small amount , like 1/4 inch at a time. I like carbons for their durability but the tuning crap really sucks. I have a center shot recurve that will take about anything you throw at it, as do most center shot bows. Few longbows are center shot, close but not quite. I'll use carbons in recurves(centershot) but as long as I can get aluminum in the 4 digit number system (1918,2016 , etc) I'll use them in my glass longbows. Or wood of course.
-- Edited by flinttim at 11:44, 2008-12-17
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I do not seek the good of others as a sanction for my right to exist, nor do I recognize the good of others as a justification for their seizure of my property or their destruction of my life.- Hank Rearden
Steve, try here. It may not be perfect, but it will get you in the ball park. When you click the link for cam type, it will bring up a choice for longbow or recurve. Here's the link: http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection Hope this helps, Bryan
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I can see the zero's comin out of that turkey's mouth as I walk to the target!
I use 1916 and 2016 s in my 50 lb bows and cut them at 28" (cut the tube and then add the points and nocks). Again, if the bow is center cut you can use most anything within reason.
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I do not seek the good of others as a sanction for my right to exist, nor do I recognize the good of others as a justification for their seizure of my property or their destruction of my life.- Hank Rearden
it is not cut to center,it kicks the arrow out to the left when knocked up..someone suggested 1916s with about 145 up front..leave long and cut down to length..is this good advice...
Well I have a 27" draw and cut them 28" and then add the nocks and points. I use 125 gr pts and they fly very well. I'll likely be shooting tham at the ITBA shoot if you want to try some but if you have 125 gr pts, that's what I would start with. (for 1916 of course). If they are flying left they are too stiff.Which I would expect with the number arrows you have tried.
-- Edited by flinttim at 17:11, 2008-12-19
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I do not seek the good of others as a sanction for my right to exist, nor do I recognize the good of others as a justification for their seizure of my property or their destruction of my life.- Hank Rearden
tried some easton 400s and with a full length shaft and a 150 grain head and are shooting like darts....only problem is i have 4 to 5 inches of shaft hanging over any suggestions here... thanks for all your help you guys are great....
The more you shorten them the stiffer they become, and that would require heavier heads to compensate. Learn to like them or go to 1916 or 2016.
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I do not seek the good of others as a sanction for my right to exist, nor do I recognize the good of others as a justification for their seizure of my property or their destruction of my life.- Hank Rearden
